{"id":7687,"date":"2019-04-26T16:32:02","date_gmt":"2019-04-26T15:32:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.danielebesana.com\/blog\/?p=7687"},"modified":"2019-05-01T10:24:36","modified_gmt":"2019-05-01T09:24:36","slug":"lenggong-valley-motorbike-tour","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/life\/travels\/lenggong-valley-motorbike-tour","title":{"rendered":"Lenggong valley motorbike tour"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Lenggong valley has <strong>UNESCO world heritage<\/strong> <a href=\"https:\/\/whc.unesco.org\/en\/list\/1396\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"archeological sites (opens in a new tab)\">archeological sites<\/a> and, equally important to me, isn&#8217;t far from the island of Penang where we spent two happy weeks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This made it the perfect target for our <strong>Lenggong valley motorbike tour<\/strong>: a loop starting and ending in Old George Town &#8211; another UNESCO heritage &#8211; and crossing Taiping, Kuala Kangsar, Lenggong, and Salama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><p>We rented a scooter from Mr Lim at <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Stardust Caf\u00e9 (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/goo.gl\/maps\/BGbtsAtKjv5S14oL6\" target=\"_blank\">Stardust Caf\u00e9<\/a>. For 35MR\/day (\u20ac7,5) we got a very decent Honda 125cc that <em>&#8220;can drive many many kilometers, lah!&#8221;<\/em>.<\/p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Day 1: George Town &#8211; Taiping<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>We set off at 9:20am and by 9:21am I realize it&#8217;s too late to avoid the Malaysian <strong>scorching sun<\/strong>.<br>Georgetown is very, very humid and very, very hot. From what I could experience in the two weeks we spent there, this is the main downside in an otherwise very great place to be.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Penang island is connected to mainland Malaysia by a ferry and two bridges. <br>We choose to ride <strong>Sultan Abdul Halim Muadzam Shah Bridge<\/strong>, that with its length of 24km it&#8217;s one of the longest sea bridges in the world!<br>And if you wonder, like me, which one is the longest then look no further than the <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hong_Kong%E2%80%93Zhuhai%E2%80%93Macau_Bridge\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"China-Macau-Hong Kong new bridge (opens in a new tab)\">China-Macau-Hong Kong new bridge<\/a>: 55km to bring the two special autonomous regions even closed to lovely mamma China (and possibly a bit less autonomous).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But let&#8217;s go back to Sultan Abdul Halim Muadzam Shah Bridge. It carries a modern highway with a separated motorbike lane. It&#8217;s an easy ride (under the scorching sun) and I&#8217;m the only one excited about it.<br>On Malaysian highways, there are &#8216;umbrella-stations&#8217; for motorbikes, that are basically parking areas with a roof.<br>Useful when it&#8217;s raining, they were a life-saver for us when tired of riding (under the scorching sun).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Anyway, our plan is to avoid highways because they&#8217;re boring.<br>We do visit the gas station, where we have a <em>bah-pau<\/em> and drinks before abandoning the highway for a more scenic road to Taiping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A few km later, we&#8217;re driving on the old motorway, realizing that <strong>there&#8217;s no scenic road to Taiping<\/strong> unless you consider trucks, traffic lights, and industrial areas as scenic (under the scorching sun).<br>I&#8217;m impressed by how developed this area is, but we also ride next to what looks like Malaysian jungle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I spot a road-killed baby leopard, and a monitor lizard in the middle of the road. Or maybe there were not a leopard and a monitor lizard. Hard to say (under the scorching sun).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At noon we stop in an area with a few food options, from KFC to local <em>nasi kandar<\/em>, and we luckily choose the latter.<br>This is not a place that sees many foreigners and using a few Indonesians words triggers large smiles on the faces of people working here.<br>But some English is spoken everywhere and language has not been an issue at all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We resume driving for one more hour (under the scorching sun) then I realize that my arms are very red. I&#8217;m burned and I haven&#8217;t put any sunscreen.<br>We stop a few km before Taiping and this time, unfortunately, we opt for a KFC &#8211; but just for the A\/C.<br>The last stretch of our drive (under the scorching sun) crosses the beautiful <strong>lake gardens,<\/strong> the main reason I&#8217;m back to Taiping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We check-in at the only hostel in town (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Soujourns &amp; beds (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/www.booking.com\/hotel\/my\/sojourn-beds-amp-cafe.en-gb.html\" target=\"_blank\"> <\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.booking.com\/hotel\/my\/sojourn-beds-amp-cafe.en-gb.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Sojourn Beds &amp; Cafe (opens in a new tab)\">Sojourn Beds &amp; Cafe<\/a><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Soujourns &amp; beds (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/www.booking.com\/hotel\/my\/sojourn-beds-amp-cafe.en-gb.html\" target=\"_blank\">s<\/a>) where I stayed during my first visit in 2016, but we discover that:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>I booked the room for the wrong date (one month later);<\/li><li>the previous owner, a friendly Englishman with a Malaysian partner, is long gone.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>This makes me sad as I start questioning the difficulties of mixed-relationships, and can someone really be uprooted and live in Taiping?!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After more than 110km (under the scorching sun) we&#8217;re tired. <br>In the evening we buy flip-flops that don&#8217;t make my feet bleed anymore, and we have a tasty <em>char kuay tauw<\/em> in one of the many hawker centers around town.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Distance: 110km<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Day 2 &#8211; Taiping<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The lake gardens are the main reason I wanted to come back to Taiping. Actually, I wanted to run in them.<br>I leave the hostel soon after 7am, with a very nice early morning breeze and my running shoes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I run 10km around the gardens, and they are as magnificent as I remember them!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-instagram wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-instagram\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\nhttps:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BFikFXEQfGU\/\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>As in any South-East Asian park, there are hundreds of people walking, doing tai-chi, or exercising following the beats of energizing <em>apr\u00e9s-ski <\/em>music.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We&#8217;re lazy for the rest of the day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"mce_26\">Day 3 &#8211; Kuala Kangsar &#8211; Lenggong<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Taiping&#8217;s streets are quite during the day (under the scorching sun) but they came alive at night when the most absurd vehicles are speeding on them.<br>Tuned cars, motorbikes without exhaust, it&#8217;s the second night that I sit on my bed thinking about the Monza F1 GP at the times of 3.0L V12 engines (if you know what I mean) (under the scorching sun).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We hit the road around 7:30am, full of joy and excitement.<br>Direction: the royal town of Kuala Kangsar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In less than one hour we&#8217;re entering the city ready to discover what made it sultan&#8217;s favorite&#8230;. but:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>there&#8217;s a tourist information center, but it&#8217;s closed on weekends (!)<\/li><li>the Royal Palace (<strong>Istana Iskandariah<\/strong>) can only be visited on special days<\/li><li>the <strong>Sultan Azlan Shah Gallery<\/strong> has been closed for renovation for the past two years<\/li><li>the <strong>Perak Royal Museum<\/strong> was, well, under a huge scaffolding being rebuilt because of termites!<\/li><li><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-royal-museum-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7702\" srcset=\"https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-royal-museum-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-royal-museum-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-royal-museum-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-royal-museum.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Perak Royal Museum under heavy renovation!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Our visit to the royal town of Kuala Kangsar ends up with a royal lunch with excellent <em>biryani rice<\/em> and <em>teh tarik<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>All in all, Kuala Kangsar was a disappointment but as usual, if <strong>you don&#8217;t go you don&#8217;t know<\/strong>.<br>And the <strong>Masjid Ubudiah mosque<\/strong> was pretty:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-instagram wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-instagram\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\nhttps:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BweOfnGJw7K\/\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Lenggong Valley is calling and we seek some fresh air.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There&#8217;s now a highway crossing the valley, but we opt for the scenic <em>kampung <\/em>road crossing the villages even if in most parts the old road <strong>is<\/strong> the new road.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The valley isn&#8217;t any fresher than the rest of Malaysia (under the scorching sun) and we reach Lenggong by mid-afternoon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We check-in at <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Soon Lee Hotel (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/goo.gl\/maps\/xk3MiF6AhBfJBZ468\" target=\"_blank\">Soon Lee Hotel<\/a> and then visit the world-famous <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Lenggong Archeological Museum (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/goo.gl\/maps\/7wzfxeCDvrykV2Cm8\" target=\"_blank\">Lenggong Archeological Museum<\/a> that hosts the skeleton of the poor <em>Perak man<\/em>, a cripple who lived 11,000 ago in the area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-man-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7703\" srcset=\"https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-man-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-man-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-man-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/perak-man.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Perak man<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The museum is pretty nice, and kudos to the administration for giving a house to such as important historical find, rather than shipping it in a national museum in the capital!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sadly, the caves where these discoveries were made are now closed and guarded because they got vandalized with graffiti and phallic signs.<br>You can visit them on an appointment, by making contact a few days in advance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the evening we have <em>steamboat<\/em>, aka <em>hotpot<\/em>: a Chinese cooking tradition where diners cook their own food in a hot pan with boiling broth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>By coincidence, the family running our hotel is there too.<br><em>&#8220;We have an Italian friend, Marco!&#8221;<\/em> and they show me a picture of them together with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.marcoferrarese.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Marco Ferrarese (opens in a new tab)\">Marco Ferrarese<\/a> and his wife Kit, that we meet a few days before in George Town!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Marco was the inspiration for this trip with his <a href=\"https:\/\/www.penang-insider.com\/definitive-lenggong-valley-travel-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Lenggong valley travel guide (opens in a new tab)\">Lenggong valley travel guide<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Total distance: 240km<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Day 4 &#8211; Lenggong &#8211; George Town<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>It&#8217;s Sunday and it&#8217;s time for us to get back to Penang.<br>Our ride starts at 7am, and our body feels an unusual sensation: it&#8217;s chilly!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We turn left on the A6 towards Selama and this is definitely <strong>a great motorbike ride<\/strong> going up &amp; down the mountains, next to waterfalls overlooking the valley.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Quite TOP, if you ask me (and since you&#8217;re reading my post, you do ask me).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Reaching Kulim, we realize that the magic is over as we&#8217;re back to urbanized areas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The last touch of romance is the ferry crossing from Butterworth to George Town.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/ferry-butterworth-penang-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-7704\" srcset=\"https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/ferry-butterworth-penang-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/ferry-butterworth-penang-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/ferry-butterworth-penang-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/ferry-butterworth-penang.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Total distance: 370km<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/d\/u\/0\/embed?mid=1L154xSzr0MH1-mefhHwJgXhKZ9cm1-mp\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p> All our pictures <a href=\"https:\/\/?https:\/\/photos.app.goo.gl\/ZaELphToE7RtuU327\">here.<\/a><br><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"kk-star-ratings kksr-auto kksr-align-left kksr-valign-bottom\"\n    data-payload='{&quot;align&quot;:&quot;left&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;7687&quot;,&quot;slug&quot;:&quot;default&quot;,&quot;valign&quot;:&quot;bottom&quot;,&quot;ignore&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;reference&quot;:&quot;auto&quot;,&quot;class&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;count&quot;:&quot;8&quot;,&quot;legendonly&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;readonly&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;score&quot;:&quot;4.5&quot;,&quot;starsonly&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;best&quot;:&quot;5&quot;,&quot;gap&quot;:&quot;5&quot;,&quot;greet&quot;:&quot;Rate this post&quot;,&quot;legend&quot;:&quot;4.5\\\/5 - (8 votes)&quot;,&quot;size&quot;:&quot;24&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Lenggong valley motorbike tour&quot;,&quot;width&quot;:&quot;128&quot;,&quot;_legend&quot;:&quot;{score}\\\/{best} - ({count} {votes})&quot;,&quot;font_factor&quot;:&quot;1.25&quot;}'>\n            \n<div class=\"kksr-stars\">\n    \n<div class=\"kksr-stars-inactive\">\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"1\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"2\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"3\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"4\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" data-star=\"5\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n    \n<div class=\"kksr-stars-active\" style=\"width: 128px;\">\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n            <div class=\"kksr-star\" style=\"padding-right: 5px\">\n            \n\n<div class=\"kksr-icon\" style=\"width: 24px; height: 24px;\"><\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<\/div>\n                \n\n<div class=\"kksr-legend\" style=\"font-size: 19.2px;\">\n            4.5\/5 - (8 votes)    <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Lenggong valley has UNESCO world heritage archeological sites and, equally important to me, isn&#8217;t far from the island of Penang where we spent two happy weeks. This made it the perfect target for our Lenggong valley motorbike tour: a loop starting and ending in Old George Town &#8211; another UNESCO heritage &#8211; and crossing Taiping,&hellip; <a class=\"more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/danielebesana.com\/blog\/life\/travels\/lenggong-valley-motorbike-tour\">Continua a leggere <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Lenggong valley motorbike tour<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":7705,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[131],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7687","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travels","entry"],"yoast_head":"<!-- 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